Tellao beech forest circular route
8 km circular through old-growth beech forest, ending at a valley viewpoint. 300 m accumulated elevation, easy to follow and very photogenic in October.
Getaways
Upper Aller · Mountain cabins and hiking under Starlight skies
Remote cabins deep in an Asturian beech forest, stargazing and hiking among wolves and capercaillies.
From 140 € /person
1-3 nights
Principality of Asturias No commitment · We design it with you
§02 — The place
A slate cabin, the Milky Way and the silence of the Cantabrian range
You drive up from Moreda until the asphalt ends, and you keep going. You arrive at a cabin wedged into the beech forest — wood, slate, a fireplace. A biologist greets you and will guide you tomorrow to a viewpoint to listen for capercaillie and, with luck, for wolves. At night, in a certified Starlight reserve, the Milky Way falls onto your head.
§03 — Why it stands out
Why it stands out
- 01
UNESCO-FAS Starlight Reserve
The Cantabrian Mountains Starlight Reserve covers 16,700 km² of Asturias and León with skies certified free of light pollution. One of the largest worldwide, with Upper Aller at its core.
- 02
Real cabins, no eco-chic posturing
Upper Aller cabins are restored traditional wood-and-slate buildings, not prefab bungalows. Many keep their outdoor corridor, log fireplace and a single room. It's what it is: a cabin.
- 03
Real habitat for wolves and capercaillies
Asturias hosts the Iberian Peninsula's highest Iberian wolf density and the Cantabrian capercaillie barely survives here. Walking with a wildlife biologist doubles the chances of spotting tracks, scat and — with luck — dawn calls.
- 04
Giant-leaved beech forests in autumn
Aller's beech forests — Tellao, Caleao — turn whole hillsides copper and gold between 10 and 30 October. Few places in the country match this autumn palette.
§04 — Who it fits
Who it fits
Adventure Ecotourism Romantic Disconnection Photography
Fits if you want real disconnection, fancy two nights without your phone and enjoy walking through damp forest. Good for couples, solo travellers and small groups keen on wildlife watching or astronomy.
Doesn't fit if you need a village with bars nearby, lift access at your lodging, or you expect dry weather. Asturian weather shifts every two hours, and the cabin is usually 20-40 min by car from the nearest shop.
No commitment · We design it with you
§05 — What you can live
What you can live here
An editorial showcase of what the destination offers. Nothing to book here - we shape it when you write to us.
Adventure
— The active side: guided or self-guided activities, no sugar-coating the gradient.The active side: guided or self-guided activities, no sugar-coating the gradient.
Culture & heritage
— What makes this place different: heritage, crafts, local history.What makes this place different: heritage, crafts, local history.
Mining Museum of El Entrego
40 min by car. A tour of Asturian coal history, with a real visitable mine shaft. Essential to understand Aller's local culture.
Food & drink
— Eating well without the manual - local product, village pace.Eating well without the manual - local product, village pace.
Traditional Asturian dinner
Fabada with compango, cachopo, Cabrales cheese and rice pudding. Natural cider poured the traditional way. Casa Pepín (Moreda) or Pidre are references.
Where to sleep
— Where you sleep - inns, rural houses, hotels with character in the valley.Where you sleep - inns, rural houses, hotels with character in the valley.
Slate-and-wood cabin
Restored traditional building in forest or alpine meadow. Log fireplace, one or two rooms, hot shower. No neighbours in sight, solar power in the higher ones.
Nature
— Landscape unfiltered: what you see on foot, without the car.Landscape unfiltered: what you see on foot, without the car.
Wildlife watching with biologist
Outing with specialist guide at dusk/dawn. Search for wolf tracks, Cantabrian capercaillie signs and raptors. Binoculars included.
Starlight astronomy session
Sky certified by the Starlight Foundation. Guided astronomy with telescope: planets, Milky Way and constellations. Best September to March.
30-60 min away
— Half-hour side trips if you've time left or it rains.Half-hour side trips if you've time left or it rains.
Upper Aller alpine lakes
Route to Cuya Ría lagoon (8 km, easy) or to La Cubilla. Glacial lakes above 1,500 m, with alpine meadows and grazing herds in summer.
§06 — The practical side
Weekend practicalities
- Best season
- Spring · Summer · Autumn
- Fitness level
- Moderate
- Typical length
- 1-3 nights
More practical details
Physical level & requirements
Low-to-moderate fitness: typical route 6-10 km with 300-500 m elevation, slow pace, lots of stops for interpretation. The challenge is altitude (>1,500 m) and humidity on wet days.
How to get there
When: May to October is prime time. June and September are the sweet spot (lush, fewer crowds, long days). Winter snow allows skiing at San Isidro/Fuentes de Invierno but cabin access becomes tricky.
Access: Asturias airport (90 km) or Oviedo (40 km). Cabin pick-up usually in Cabañaquinta or Moreda; rest by your own car.
Gear: waterproof and fleece always, grippy boots, headlamp, insect repellent in summer, binoculars handy for wildlife.
Recommendations
Ask your guide/host for the exact astronomical twilight time for the stargazing session. Book a table at Pidre or Casa Pepín (Moreda) for proper Asturian cuisine. If you stay one extra day, walk to Cuya Ría lagoon (8 km, easy, spectacular).
§07 — Bookable packages
Bookable packages
§08 — Questions
Frequently asked questions
Is there a real chance of seeing a wolf?
The Iberian wolf inhabits the area — Sueve reserve and upper council zones — but is elusive. Sighting probability: very low. Hearing at dawn/dusk in autumn-winter: medium with a local guide who knows the spots. No danger to humans.
Does the cabin have electricity and wifi?
Depends on the cabin: higher-altitude ones use solar panels with NO wifi (part of the charm). Lower ones have mains power but wifi is still weak. Mobile coverage is patchy.
When are the stars best?
September to March, around new or crescent moon. The Milky Way is most spectacular July to October. October and November tend to deliver clear skies after weather fronts.
Can I get there with a regular car?
As far as Moreda/Cabañaquinta, yes (good road). The last 5-10 km to the cabin can be forest track: your host will tell you if 4x4 is needed or meet you halfway.
What if it rains both days?
It's Asturias, accept it: the cabin is a great refuge (fireplace, books, board games). Guides usually have a plan B: low-canopy forests, the mining museum in Moreda, a cider house in Cabañaquinta.
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