Valle de Campoo

The Valle de Campoo stretches across southern Cantabria between the Cantabrian Mountains and the plateaus of northern Palencia, with Reinosa as the district capital at 850 metres. The upper Ebro basin originates here: the Híjar, its main tributary, springs from the Fuente del Chivo near Pico Tres Mares (2,175 m), the point where the Cantabrian, Mediterranean and Atlantic watersheds converge. The Ebro Reservoir, covering 6,253 hectares, occupies the centre of the valley and serves as a water regulator, nesting ground for waterbirds and a venue for summer water sports. From the reservoir's shores, the snow-capped ridge of southern Cantabria stands against a sky that, at sunset, paints the water in shades of orange.

The Alto Campoo ski resort sits 27 kilometres from Reinosa at altitudes ranging from 1,650 to 2,175 metres at the summit of Pico Tres Mares. It has 22 runs (3 green, 9 blue, 8 red and 2 black) totalling some 27.6 skiable kilometres and 5 lifts. The snow season usually runs from December to April, though climate variability can shorten it. In summer the resort serves as a launching point for mountain routes to Cuchillón, Iján and Pico Cordel, with moderate gradients and views across both flanks of the mountain range.

The valley's trail network includes the GR-99 (Sendero del Ebro), which follows the river from its source to the reservoir and beyond. Routes through the secondary valleys of Campoo de Suso, Campoo de Yuso and Campoo de Enmedio cross meadows, beech woods and oak groves with gentle slopes, suitable for walkers of all levels. Cyclists find quiet secondary roads and greenways such as the route along the old Hullero railway line. In autumn the valley's beech woods turn ochre and rust, and the smell of wet grass blends with chimney smoke from the villages.

Valley wildlife includes roe deer, wild boar and fox in the hillside woods, while the Ebro Reservoir supports colonies of grey heron, great cormorant and mallard. The marsh harrier nests in the reed beds along the banks. Brown trout inhabit the upper reaches of the streams feeding the Híjar, and fishing is regulated through permit-only beats. The flora of the hay meadows, still maintained as working farmland, includes wild orchids in spring.

Campoo's cuisine centres on cocido montañés (white beans with cabbage, pork ribs and black pudding), quesucos de Campoo, Tudanca beef and corbatas de Unquera, a puff-pastry snack. Reinosa offers full services: supermarkets, petrol stations, a health centre, hotels and restaurants. Valley villages — Fontibre, Nestares, La Población, Matamorosa — have rural guesthouses and inns with seasonal menus. From Santander the drive on the A-67 takes 90 minutes; from Palencia slightly less on the CL-626.