The essentials of Parque Natural de los Alcornocales

  • • World's largest cork oak forest: 170,000 ha of Quercus suber
  • • Canutos with Palaeogene laurisilva: alders, laurels and giant ferns
  • • Iberian lynx dispersal corridor between Doñana, Gibraltar and Portugal
  • • Tarifa viewpoints: black storks and raptors during spring and autumn migration
  • • Canyoning in the Río de la Miel gorges with a certified local guide

Description

Parque Natural de los Alcornocales covers 170,000 hectares across the southern province of Cádiz and the northern edge of Málaga, stretching from the foothills of Sierra de Grazalema to the cliffs that drop toward the Strait of Gibraltar. It is the world's largest cork oak forest — a fact that becomes tangible once you walk among its ochre trunks and fern-covered slopes, where tree ferns reach heights of over a metre. Cork has been harvested here continuously for centuries, and the whitewashed harvest dates painted on each stripped trunk serve as living inventory tags. In summer, when the cork harvest is underway, the air carries the combined scent of damp earth, tannic wood and fresh resin.

The park's topography is shaped by several parallel ridges — Sierra del Aljibe, Sierra del Niño, Sierra de Montecoche — separated by narrow, moisture-laden ravines called canutos. These sheltered north-facing gorges preserve a fragment of laurisilva, the subtropical Atlantic forest that covered much of southern Europe millions of years ago. Laurels, alders and relict ferns including the rare Diplazium caudatum survive here because temperatures at the ravine floor can be 5–6°C lower than on exposed slopes, maintaining a Palaeogene microclimate within a Mediterranean landscape.

The wildlife is notable. The Iberian lynx uses the park as a dispersal corridor, its population in the Campo de Gibraltar area having grown through reintroduction programmes. The black vulture nests on the crests of Sierra del Aljibe, with colonies exceeding one hundred pairs. During spring and autumn migration, the Tarifa viewpoints become one of Europe's premier raptor-watching sites: black storks, Egyptian vultures, booted eagles and Eleonora's falcons pass in significant numbers. The Río de la Miel and Río Palmones drain toward the coast through riparian corridors supporting otter and kingfisher.

The trail network includes the GR-7 long-distance route crossing the park north to south, local PR paths connecting the white villages of Alcalá de los Gazules, Jimena de la Frontera and Castellar de la Frontera to traditional droving routes. Rock climbing on sandstone is practised in the Cañones del Río de la Miel sector. Canyoning in the canutos requires a specific permit and a local guide, given the technical terrain and the sensitivity of the relict habitat.

The traditional economy of the surrounding villages intertwines with the landscape in ways that remain visible today. Cork harvesting sustains dozens of family businesses across the Campo de Gibraltar, and the cork itself, graded according to porosity and thickness, feeds the wine-stopper industry from Bordeaux to the Douro Valley. Free-range retinto cattle and Iberian pigs in montanera—fattening on acorns through late autumn—graze the dehesas at the park's margins, keeping the understorey open in a land management system that dates to Roman times. The white villages perched on the ridges—Alcalá de los Gazules with its Moorish castle keep, Jimena de la Frontera with its three-towered fortress overlooking the Río Hozgarganta—offer accommodation, local food and starting points for the longer GR-7 traverse across the full length of the park.

Practical information

Everything you need to know for your visit to Parque Natural de los Alcornocales

How to get there
From Algeciras, the A-381 toward Jerez de la Frontera enters the park directly. Alcalá de los Gazules is the hub for the northern sector. Jimena de la Frontera and Castellar de la Frontera provide access to the southern sector and the Río de la Miel gorges.
Area Information
The municipalities of Alcalá de los Gazules, Jimena de la Frontera, Castellar de la Frontera, Los Barrios and Tarifa frame local life. Traditional economy revolves around cork harvesting, extensive livestock farming and, on the coast, fishing. The cork industry provides seasonal employment for hundreds of families in the area.
Geography
Sandstone and slate highlands with peaks between 800 and 1,092 m (Aljibe). Narrow north-facing valleys — the canutos — concentrate moisture and preserve Tertiary laurisilva. The park drains toward the Strait of Gibraltar and the Bay of Algeciras.
Flora & Fauna
Dense cork oak woodland dominated by Quercus suber. In the canutos: laurel (Laurus nobilis), alder (Alnus glutinosa), Diplazium caudatum and Woodwardia radicans. Fauna: Iberian lynx, black vulture, Egyptian vulture, otter and night heron. Rich amphibian community in the streams.

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Frequently Asked Questions

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Yes. Canyoning inside the park requires prior authorisation from the Junta de Andalucía. Applications are filed online and must specify the gorge, date and number of participants. Licensed local operators can handle this process on your behalf and are familiar with the permit requirements.
Cork extraction runs from June to August, when temperatures allow the bark to separate cleanly without damaging the tree. Each cork oak is stripped roughly every nine years, and the harvest year is painted in whitewash directly on the exposed wood. Watching the process in the field is a genuinely absorbing ethnographic experience.
The lynx uses the park as a dispersal corridor, but sightings are uncommon because the animal is elusive and mainly crepuscular and nocturnal. The best options are booking a wildlife tour with a specialist guide or visiting monitored water points established by local conservation organisations working in the Campo de Gibraltar area.
The Mirador del Estrecho near Tarifa and Cerro del Cabrito are the main concentration points. The autumn passage (August–November) typically produces higher numbers than the spring one. The MIGRES Foundation maintains observation posts with daily species counts published online.
The historic centres of Alcalá de los Gazules, Jimena de la Frontera and Castellar de la Frontera offer rural tourism accommodation. Some estates within the park have licensed lodging. Tarifa and Algeciras, outside the park boundary, extend the hotel options for those who prefer a coastal base.