Sierra Salvada

The essentials of Sierra Salvada

  • • Limestone cliffs over 300 metres with stable griffon vulture breeding colonies
  • • Pozalagua Cave housing one of Europe's densest concentrations of eccentric stalactites
  • • Gujuli waterfall plunging 100 metres on the southern face of the massif
  • • Karst plateau with sinkholes, limestone pavements and shafts along marked trails
  • • Historic transhumance drove roads linking Ayala valley villages with high pastures
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Description

Sierra Salvada marks the natural border between Álava and Burgos, a limestone massif rising from 600 to 1,240 metres at the Tologorri peak. Its vertical cliffs, some exceeding 300 metres in drop, form one of the most extensive rock walls in northern Spain. Karst springs at the base of these crags feed clear streams flowing north toward the Ayala valley and south to the Alavese plain. From the upper plateau, the view reaches the summits of Gorbea to the east and the Ordunte range to the west, a horizon that shifts in tone with every season.

Karst geology defines the sierra's character. Sinkholes, limestone pavements and shafts punctuate the upper plateau, where water has sculpted a subterranean landscape of considerable complexity over millions of years. Pozalagua Cave, opened to the public in 1997 after its accidental discovery during quarrying, shelters one of Europe's densest concentrations of eccentric stalactites: mineral filaments that defy gravity and grow in every direction, the result of aragonite crystallisation under constant humidity. On the southern face, the Gujuli waterfall drops 100 metres in free fall, fed by a stream that collects water filtered through the limestone. In spring, when snowmelt and rainfall saturate the ground, the cascade reaches its full force and the sound of falling water carries all the way to the car park.

The limestone cliffs host stable griffon vulture colonies with over 100 breeding pairs. At dawn, before thermals form, the vultures line the rocky ledges, their silhouettes outlined against pale limestone. Egyptian vultures, peregrine falcons and golden eagles share the crags for nesting and hunting. Beech and Portuguese oak forests on the wetter, shadier northern slopes provide habitat for middle spotted and black woodpeckers among old, moss-covered trunks. The plateau meadows support specialised flora adapted to calcareous substrate and the persistent wind that sweeps the summit: endemics such as Loscos's saxifrage grow alongside stunted box, creeping juniper and calcicole grasslands that flower briefly between May and June.

Transhumance has shaped Sierra Salvada's landscape for centuries, and its traces remain legible. Summit pastures still in use retain cobbled drove roads and dry-stone shepherd shelters linking Ayala valley villages with the high grasslands. Latxa sheep and Pyrenean cattle climb each spring along routes already in use during the Middle Ages. Towns like Maroño and Quejana preserve a quiet but well-maintained rural heritage: medieval towers, Romanesque chapels and stone farmsteads set in a green, sheltered valley. Quejana also houses the Ayala Palace complex, with its 14th-century tower and a small museum tracing the lineage's history.

Proximity to Bilbao (50 km via the AP-68) and Vitoria-Gasteiz (30 km via the A-2625) makes the sierra an accessible mountain destination without long travel times. A visitor setting out early can traverse the plateau, peer over the cliff edges, tour Pozalagua Cave and stop at a cider house in the Ayala valley before returning to the city. Those preferring a longer stay will find rural accommodation in Amurrio and Orduña, a comfortable base for combining the sierra with nearby routes such as the Nervión waterfall or Monte Santiago.

Practical information

Everything you need to know for your visit to Sierra Salvada

How to get there

How to get there

By car Public transport
From Vitoria-Gasteiz, take the A-2625 to Amurrio and continue on the A-3602 to Maroño or Quejana (30 km, 35 min). From Bilbao, follow the AP-68 to Llodio and join the A-3602 toward the Ayala valley (50 km, 45 min). Main access points at Maroño (north face) and Gujuli (south face).
Area Information
Marked trails from Maroño, Quejana and Gujuli. Parking at main access points. Unstaffed mountain shelter on the plateau. Rural accommodation and restaurants in the Ayala valley (Amurrio, Orduña). Pozalagua interpretation centre with guided cave tours.
Geography
Limestone massif stretching 20 km between Álava and Burgos. Elevation from 600 to 1,240 m (Tologorri). Vertical cliffs up to 300 m, karst plateau with sinkholes and limestone pavements. Upper Cretaceous limestone substrate.
Flora & Fauna
Griffon vulture (over 100 pairs), Egyptian vulture, peregrine falcon and golden eagle on the cliffs. Middle spotted and black woodpeckers in beech and oak forests. Calcicole flora on the plateau: Loscos's saxifrage, box and creeping juniper. Beech woods on the northern slopes, Portuguese oaks on the southern face.

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Frequently Asked Questions

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The Gujuli waterfall viewpoint is a short 10-minute walk from the signposted car park beside the A-2625 road on the southern side of the sierra. The path is flat and accessible, suitable for families. The waterfall is at its most impressive between March and May, after spring rains and snowmelt.
Yes, advance booking is recommended, especially on weekends and public holidays. The cave is visited in small guided groups, and slots fill up quickly during peak season. You can check timetables and purchase tickets on the Pozalagua interpretation centre website or by phone.
Routes range from gentle valley walks near Ayala to demanding traverses across the karst plateau. The ascent of Tologorri (1,240 m) involves roughly 600 metres of elevation gain and takes 4 to 5 hours return. Plateau trails are technically easy but long and exposed to wind, so warm clothing is advisable even in summer.
Griffon vultures are year-round residents, so they can be observed in any season. However, colony activity is most visible from February to July during the breeding period. Early morning is the most productive time, when thermal currents are still forming and the birds remain close to the cliff faces.
The full plateau traverse from Maroño to Gujuli or vice versa covers roughly 18-20 km with moderate cumulative elevation gain. It is feasible in a long day for fit hikers, allowing 7 to 8 hours. Carry sufficient water as there are no reliable springs on the plateau, and check the weather forecast to avoid dense fog.