What is the Garganta de los Infiernos
The Garganta de los Infiernos is a natural reserve in Cáceres with waterfalls, polished pools and forests of oak and sweet chestnut. It is located in the Valle del Jerte, and its name comes from the roar of the water during floods, when the granite seems to boil beneath the falls.
"Giant's kettles" are circular cavities carved by water and sand as they swirl like a natural lathe. They explain the rounded shape of Los Pilones, in the Garganta de los Infiernos natural reserve. The Junta de Extremadura declared it a Natural Reserve in 1994 and protects riverside forests with black alder and ash, oak groves on the slopes, broom at altitude and mountain fauna such as white-throated dippers, Eurasian otters and salamanders.
You can visit for three reasons: hiking through marked routes for all levels, from family strolls to more technical treks; swimming in the pools fed by snowmelt; and landscape. The landscape changes throughout the year: in March-April the wild cherry blooms, in summer green dominates and in autumn the sweet chestnuts ignite golden tones.
In summer the pools are natural swimming areas, so exercise extreme caution due to the coldness of the water and the rocky bottom.
Wear footwear with grippy soles, respect the signage and check the notices from the Junta de Extremadura and AEMET before setting off.
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How to get there, when to go and essential facts
The most common access starts from the Visitor Centre, next to Jerte. From the village, drive 3 km along the N-110 towards Tornavacas until the right-hand turnoff signposted towards the car park and the Interpretation Centre.
3-5 €/day). In high season, there are additional signposted parking areas, with reserve staff directing the flow of vehicles.
Practical tip
If the first car park is full, don't keep driving in circles: continue to the alternative car parks signposted by the reserve. You will walk a little more, but you will save time and peace of mind.
Do not park in ditches or at farm entrances: the tow truck will act and you will make agricultural work difficult. It is also not permitted to park between the Jerte Football Pitch and the Valle del Jerte campsite.
The Los Pilones pools are located approximately at 40.20°N, -5.75°W and form the most photographed section of the gorge. The murmur of the water reaches you before you see the rocks carved in emerald green.
By car from Madrid or Salamanca, the main route is the A-66 to Plasencia and then the N-110 through the Valle del Jerte. From Ávila or Segovia, you arrive via the N-110 passing through the Puerto de Tornavacas, and from La Vera and El Tiétar, you connect via the EX-203 towards Plasencia and take the N-110. Drive slowly during the flowering season: there is local agricultural traffic and stops for photos.
By public transport, the Plasencia - Valle del Jerte - Madrid bus line departs from the South Bus Station (C/ Méndez Álvaro, Madrid) and stops in Navaconcejo, Cabezuela del Valle, Jerte and Tornavacas, as well as at the junctions of the N-110 with the roads to Casas del Castañar, El Torno, Valdastillas and Rebollar. There is a bus from Plasencia to Jerte, but from the stop you have to walk more than half an hour along the N-110 to reach the start of the route. Allow an extra 30–60 minutes on foot to the start of the routes if you do not take a local taxi, and check schedules the day before because there are fewer services on bank holidays.
The flowering of the wild cherry (March-April, variable depending on the weather) is very busy: you need reservations and to get up early. In summer, go early (before 10:00) or at sunset to avoid the heat and the queues. In autumn, there are colours and moderate flow: a good time for photography and hiking. In winter, the routes are quieter, with very cold water and possible ice patches in shaded areas.
To avoid crowds, it is better to go during the week rather than on the weekend, in the early mornings or late afternoon, and avoiding national bank holidays, Holy Week and the peaks of the cherry season. Check the AEMET forecast and possible rises in water levels after storms; mobile coverage is irregular, so download offline maps and share your plan with someone. The water is cold: enter progressively and do not be overconfident with jumps.
Where to sleep and where to eat in the valley
Sleeping near the reserve allows you to head out early, with the best light and the freshness of the morning. The towns of the Jerte Valley have a wide network of rural accommodation, campsites and hostels, so there are options for almost any budget.
At the table, the local restaurants work with local produce: cherries, kid goat, mushrooms and cheeses. Book a table if you come on a weekend or during the cherry season, when the valley fills up.
Choose your base according to your plan. Families looking for services stay in the larger towns; hikers prioritise proximity to the routes; and those coming for a weekend combine landscape and gastronomy in a single getaway.
Accommodation: base towns and types of accommodation
Four towns in the valley serve as places to sleep near the Garganta de los Infiernos: Jerte, Tornavacas, Cabezuela del Valle and Navaconcejo. Choose according to what you want to do the next day and how much time you want to spend in the car.
Tornavacas is at the northern end of the valley and provides quick access to the high altitudes and the Puerto de Tornavacas. It is a good option if you are going to walk up high or are looking for panoramas.
Cabezuela del Valle is located on the N-110, between Navaconcejo and Jerte, about 30 km from Plasencia. It has a historic centre declared a historic-artistic site and is the most populated municipality in the region. 3 km towards Jerte lies the Garganta de los Infiernos Interpretation Centre.
Navaconcejo serves as a base for other gorges and river routes of the river. It is about 13 min by car (8.4 km) from the start of the Garganta de los Infiernos routes.
From Jerte, you travel 3 km along the N-110 towards Tornavacas until the signposted detour to the car park and the Interpretation Centre. There is a bus from Plasencia, but from the stop, you walk more than half an hour along the N-110 to the start of the route. The official car park next to the Interpretation Centre is paid from mid-March to the end of October (approx. 3-5 €/day) and is free for the rest of the year.
Common types of accommodation are entire rural houses and apartments for families or groups, hostels and small hotels with breakfast, campsites and bungalows in summer with shade and a swimming pool, and shelters or hostels for hiking on a tight budget.
In high season, book in advance and confirm the parking. If you are going to combine several routes, staying in Jerte or Cabezuela balances the travel times. Ask about the local regulations for recycling and water conservation.
Gastronomy and where to eat: restaurants and takeaway food
After your swim, the valley can also be enjoyed at the table: Jerte cherry (DOC), kid goat, brown trout, stew and migas. In autumn, mushrooms and chestnuts arrive, so look for restaurants that work with seasonal produce.
Lunch hours are usually 13:30–16:00 and dinner is 20:30–23:00. There is more demand on weekends and during the blossom season, and during high season it is advisable to book in restaurants in Jerte, Cabezuela and Tornavacas. For an informal dinner, the valley bars serve portions and sandwiches.
Before heading out on the route, stock up at shops and cooperatives: fruit, dried fruits, bread and cured meats. If you follow a special diet, let them know in advance, as more and more places offer gluten-free or vegetarian dishes.
If you eat outdoors, use containers and avoid single-use packaging, eat in designated areas and keep your distance from fragile banks. Pick up everything you take, including cigarette butts and fruit peels.
In summer, many accommodations prepare early breakfasts or picnics upon request; check the day before. If you visit in June, ask about tastings or direct purchase of cherries to support the valley's agricultural community.
Essential hiking routes
Garganta de los Infiernos has routes for all levels, from family walks to more technical treks. The paths are signposted and combine rocky steps with shaded forests.
Wear footwear with grippy soles: polished granite is slippery when wet. Once that is sorted, choose your route according to the time you have and the group's strength.
1. Los Pilones route: short circuit and pools
The Los Pilones route is the most popular and accessible in the reserve. It starts from the Jerte Visitor Centre and climbs up a cobbled path to the emerald pools, with a circular circuit option to vary the return journey.
The path is well-maintained and follows the course of the stream, with clear signage from the start. In the final metres of the ascent, there are viewpoints over the gorge, and the giant kettles of Los Pilones form natural rock walkways.
It is about 8 km round trip, with ~350 m of elevation gain and 2–3 h of actual walking time without swimming. The difficulty is easy-moderate: there are initial ramps and rocks near the water.
If you go swimming, enter carefully and do not jump from the rocks due to the sudden changes in depth. In summer, bring river sandals for the entry and exit points in the water. With children, always keep an eye on them at the water's edge: polished granite is deceptive.
For the photo, arrive early: you will have soft light and fewer people.
The Visitor Centre car park has capacity for about 200 vehicles and is paid from mid-March to late October (approx. 3-5 €/day); it is free for the rest of the year. During the Cherry Blossom season and summer weekends, it fills up before 09:00.
2. Senda de la Garganta: up to waterfalls
The Senda de la Garganta follows the course of the stream between black alder, Pyrenean oak, and the occasional hazel. It is the natural extension of the visit if you want to walk for a little longer.
The route has moderate difficulty, with irregular sections, roots and slippery steps. The path is made of earth and rock, with local markings, and after rain, puddles and mud appear in the shaded areas. Along the way, you will find intermediate waterfalls and tranquil pools to soak your feet, with side views of oak and broom slopes.
Los Pilones, the best-known spot, are giant's kettles (pilancones) excavated by water erosion on granite rock. The Pyrenean desman, its emblem, lives in the reserve.
Wear mountain footwear with grippy soles and use poles for the rock crossings. Avoid this extension during high water levels or when a storm is nearby, and plan your return with daylight in mind: the return via the riverbank is slower than via the track.
3. Family and accessible itinerary
The most tranquil walk in the Garganta de los Infiernos starts next to the Visitor Centre. It goes out via a forest track and wide path, without sections of polished rock, and is suitable for going with children or those with reduced mobility.
The difficulty is easy. There are earthy parts where an all-terrain pram passes easily, but not a conventional wheelchair. Along the way, you will find benches and clearings with natural shade: a good spot for an early picnic.
When the river sounds nearby without being overwhelming, the smell of leaves and damp earth accompanies every step. Do not approach the sloping slabs next to the river. If you bring a dog, always keep it on a lead and respect other visitors.
Bring a cap, water and sunscreen even on cool days. Allow a morning for the route and park at the Visitor Centre before starting.
Los Pilones and other pools: where to swim well
Choosing where to get in changes the experience completely.
Before entering, check the current and the bottom. A pleasant swim and a fright are separated by that one-minute gesture.
The golden rule is simple: enter slowly, assess the current and never jump without knowing the bottom.
1. Los Pilones: iconic natural pools
Los Pilones are a succession of giant's kettles connected by natural slides, with cold and very clear water, in the Garganta de los Infiernos Natural Reserve (Jerte Valley, Cáceres). It is the perfect stop for a dip in the Jerte.
The water is cold all year round. The depth ranges from 1 metre to more than 5 in the largest basins, and changes with the flow or the low water levels. The water bites your ankles when you enter, but the freshness makes up for it a second later.
The granite rock is smooth and very slippery when wet, so wear water shoes to get in and out. Do not jump from a height: there are ledges and unpredictable eddies, and it is advisable to keep children within arm's reach. During floods or after storms, do not approach the active slides.
Swimming is regulated by the Junta de Extremadura and may be restricted or prohibited depending on the season, the state of the stream or the influx of people. During the Cherry Blossom season and on summer weekends there are many people: the car park fills up before 9:00 in the morning. For photos without people, frame from above and capture the curves of the granite.
You arrive via a marked path from the car park of the Garganta de los Infiernos Natural Reserve Interpretation Centre, on the N-110, 3 km north of Jerte. Inside the canyon, mobile phone signal is very limited.
2. El Chorrero: photogenic waterfall and occasional swim
El Chorrero de la Virgen is a waterfall that can be seen from the Chorrero viewpoint, although its bed may be dry in summer. It is one of the most prominent waterfalls in the Garganta de los Infiernos.
You arrive via a marked detour from the main path of the gorge, with a brief descent over rock. The water spray wets and polishes the surface, so exercise extreme caution. Next to the fall, the constant murmur and the veil of suspended droplets create a cool microclimate; the moss and the river ferns are fragile, please respect them.
The waterfall can be seen from the Chorrero viewpoint, although it may be dry in summer. For photography, use a low tripod if you are working with long exposure and do not block the path. The best angles are on the opposite bank, without approaching the edge of the drop.
Swim only during low water levels and away from the direct spray of the waterfall. After rains, currents and eddies intensify: in that case, photos yes, swimming no.
3. Less crowded pools: tranquility with caution
Upstream and in the lateral sections of the gorge, there are small pools where swimming is calmer. You reach them via small paths and rock, so access requires some attention.
To find them, follow beyond Los Pilones along the riverbank and look for the discreet entrances used by hikers. Do not take shortcuts: use the marked paths so as not to erode the slopes.
The difficulty is variable. Some access points require simple scrambling and balance, and are not recommended with small children or on wet ground. In the intermediate pools, the water is shallower and the current is gentle, with an irregular stony bottom: enter with river sandals.
At midday, a thread of shade crossed by dragonflies betrays the calmest pools. Leave the place as you found it: without rubbish, soaps or creams in the water.
4. Bathing areas near towns: services and convenience
With children, convenience is key: several towns in the valley maintain prepared bathing areas, with easy access, lifeguards during the season and shade. The waters are calm and have a gradual entry, making them ideal for first swims.
The Jerte Natural Pool is just a few metres from the town and has car parks, a beach bar, picnic areas, swings and grass areas with natural shade. In Cabezuela del Valle, the Jerte river that flows through the town forms a series of ponds and natural pools.
In Navaconcejo, El Cajón is a widening of the Jerte river with easy access from the town, parking nearby and grass meadows. It has no lifeguard or beach bar. From these bathing areas, you can connect with the Garganta de las Nogaledas route, featuring waterfalls and natural pools.
It is common in these areas to find nearby parking, bars and public toilets; check the opening season before going. The laughter of children mixes with the splashing when the sun warms the grass.
Go early or late and avoid the peak hours in July and August. Respect the residents' rest: keep music low or non-existent.
Activities, regulations and practical tips
Before setting off, inform yourself about the day's conditions and the current regulations.
Canyoning is done only with specialised companies and at levels suited to your experience: the flow rate is in charge. Interpretative visits cover botany, geology (giant's kettles) and birdlife. If you are going to photograph the landscape, arrive early to avoid crowds and respect the wildlife.
The scent of rockrose and heath rises from the slopes when the sun is strong.
Rules in the reserve
- Do not light fires or use stoves in the mountains.
- Do not camp or stay overnight outside of the designated areas.
- Drones require specific authorisation, in addition to AESA regulations.
- Fish only with a licence and during the permitted periods and zones.
- Keep dogs on a lead, pick up their excrement and avoid breeding areas.
- In peaks, there may be capacity and parking restrictions: respect the regulations on-site.
What to bring
- Mountain footwear with grippy soles.
- Plenty of water (minimum 1.5 l per person in summer) and salts.
- Sun protection, cap and sunglasses.
- Swimming costume, light towel and river sandals.
- Basic first aid kit: plasters, disinfectant and anti-allergy if necessary.
- Headlamp or torch if you are out until sunset.
Safety
In the water, enter slowly and assess the current and the bottom. Avoid jumping: the depth changes with the flow rate. After storms, do not approach active slides and avoid risky crossings.
Mobile coverage is irregular: download offline maps and save a waypoint for the car (40.22–40.24°N / -5.80–-5.75°W, approx.). Inform someone of your route and your expected return time. In case of emergency, call 112 and describe the location using visible references.
The reserve is maintained thanks to rangers, farmers and neighbours: respect for the paths, the wildlife and the silence is as important as your footwear.
Frequently asked questions and closing
Can you swim in the Garganta de los Infiernos?
The main area is Los Pilones, where the clean water smells of mountains and wet stone when you reach the shore.
The water is cold all year round and the polished rock is slippery, so avoid jumping from a height. Do not approach the natural slides when the flow increases, and do not swim directly under the waterfalls due to the surges. Do not enter the water after a storm either: currents and levels change quickly.
The best times are early morning or the end of the day, with fewer people and softer sun. If you are in doubt, observe other swimmers and ask the reserve staff.
If you are travelling with children or looking for services, there are bathing areas in the Jerte valley, such as Jerte, Cabezuela and Navaconcejo.
Do I need a permit or to pay an entrance fee to visit the Jerte Natural Reserve?
During high season, there may be parking regulations and fees for parking in designated areas to manage capacity.
Before coming, check the rules at the reserve's Visitor Centre, which has variable hours depending on the season, and on the official channels of the Junta de Extremadura and the protected area.
The regulations aim to protect the fauna, the flora and your safety, and the penalties for non-compliance are real. An information panel at the entrance gives you the information for the day: take the opportunity to resolve doubts with the staff.
Is the visit suitable for children and pets?
Yes, with a prudent choice of routes. For families, the short and accessible itinerary from the Visitor Centre is the simplest option. If you are looking for pools, choose those close to villages with progressive entries.
In Los Pilones, watch over children and avoid wet slabs and slides. The sound of leaves and water accompanies summer naps.
Dogs must always be on a lead, respecting the fauna and other visitors. Avoid the hours of maximum heat and bring water for them. Do not take them into crowded pools, for safety and coexistence.
Plan breaks and look for shade so that the day does not become too long.
What are the main rules of conduct to protect the reserve?
Following some simple rules helps to conserve the valley, which is shared by neighbours, farmers and fauna. Most can be summarised in one idea: leave the environment exactly as you find it.
Do not leave litter or cigarette butts: take them back with you. Litter pollutes the water and harms the fauna. Do not light fires or use stoves in the mountains either.
Do not pick plants or disturb the animals. Avoid loud noises and loud music: erosion and noise alter habitats and the breeding cycles of the fauna. The silence among the oaks is part of the landscape.
Respect the signage and close any gates you find along your way. These are small gestures that keep the valley in good condition for whoever comes after.
What physical preparation or equipment do the routes require?
Short walks require basic fitness and comfortable footwear. Medium routes already require hiking boots and some familiarity with moderate elevation changes.
In any case, bring footwear with grippy soles, water (1–2 l) and sun protection. Add energy food, a basic first-aid kit and your mobile phone with offline maps. Dress in layers and pack a lightweight raincoat if rain is threatening.
In the heat, start at sunrise, seek shade and replenish salts. In the rain, avoid polished rocks and use poles in the mud. In winter, be careful with ice patches in the shaded areas.
If you are in doubt, choose the short route: it is better to be left wanting more than to overexert yourself.
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Conclusion and call to action: bookings and useful resources
Garganta de los Infiernos unites water and granite in a landscape that changes with every season. There are routes for all levels and pools to refresh yourself, and the central idea is to enjoy while caring.
Before setting off, check the AEMET report and any possible warnings from the Junta de Extremadura. Also verify parking regulations and the opening hours of the Visitor Centre. Download offline maps and share your itinerary with someone.
Bring cash for regulated car parks and enough water. The Garganta de los Infiernos Natural Reserve Visitor Centre is on the N-110, kilometer 368, Jerte, and is accessible for wheelchair users (entrance, parking and toilets). For any emergency, call 112.
A responsible visit supports the community that cares for the valley.
