Irati Forest, a forest that beats in the Pyrenees
A beech-fir forest of about 17,000 continuous hectares of temperate woodland, divided between Navarra and French Lower Navarra. The Irati Forest occupies the western Pyrenees and mixes beech forests of Fagus sylvatica with fir forests of Abies alba.
The paths are well-maintained and the signage is clear. That is why the forest attracts hikers, nature photographers and families: there are easy circular routes, moderate itineraries towards ridges and tranquil walks along the water.
This guide gathers the essentials to plan your visit: the best months to go, how to get there, the car parks, a downloadable PDF/KML map and itineraries for different levels. It also includes safety tips, equipment by season, ideas for wildlife spotting without disturbing it and accommodation proposals in villages with charm such as Ochagavía and Isaba, in the heart of the valley.
In high season, book your accommodation in advance and arrive early at the Irati car parks to avoid waiting. Download the Irati Forest map in PDF/KML and save it on your mobile to use it without signal.
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The essentials you need to know before you go
The Irati Forest occupies the northeast of Navarra, between the Aezkoa and Salazar valleys, and continues north into Iraty, already in French Lower Navarra and Soule. It consists of about 17,000 ha of continuous beech-fir forest, the second largest in Europe after the German Black Forest. The altitude ranges from 800 to 1,500 m, with nearby peaks exceeding 2,000 m.
In the centre of the forest is the Irabia Reservoir, regulated since the beginning of the 20th century for hydroelectric uses and today the hub for family walks. At sunrise, the mist over the water looks like a fine wool scarf.
Orhi/Orhié (2,017 m) marks the divide between Navarra and Sola, in France, and is the first mountain that exceeds 2,000 m from the Cantabrian Sea. It is climbed via the Larrau pass and lies outside the continuous beech-fir forest.
Access and car parks
Via the Salazar side, you enter from Ochagavía and Ezcároz up to Casas de Irati. Via the Aezkoa side, the access points are Orbaizeta and the track to the Irabia Reservoir. The Irabia car park is reached via an 8 km track that starts at a turn-off 3 km from Orbaizeta.
Motorised access to Irabia and some secondary tracks may be restricted due to saturation, snow or rain. Check the notices the day before and also on the day itself. On autumn weekends, arrive early: the car parks fill up by mid-morning. Bring cash or a card for potential parking fees.
Rules in the forest
Dogs must always be on a lead and it is advisable to keep your distance from livestock in grazing areas. You cannot make fires, except in stoves where it is expressly permitted.
Drones are subject to state regulations and environmental authorisations; avoid flying them in the forest and near wildlife. On a bike, you can ride on permitted tracks and paths, without entering narrow non-cyclable trails and by yielding the way to pedestrians. Always take your rubbish back with you.
Before you go
The approach roads are in good condition, with mountain bends and narrow sections; in winter there may be ice and snow. The main forest tracks are compacted, but after rain there is mud and potholes, so low-clearance vehicles must proceed with care.
Download offline maps: coverage is irregular inside the forest. Check the AEMET report for Navarra and the status of the NA-2011, NA-140 and NA-2012 passes.
For the status of tracks and trails, ask at the information point of the Casas de Irati visitor centre.
How to get there and where to park without hassle
From San Sebastián/Donostia it is 158.8 km and 2 h 11 min.
By public transport there is a train to Pamplona (Renfe); confirm schedules the day before. For Orbaizeta services are less frequent: plan transfers and a local taxi if necessary. Inside the forest there is no regular internal public transport: you move on foot, by bike or with your own vehicle to the start of the route.
In Orbaizeta/Irabia there are several signposted car parks before the dam; if there is no space in the main one, there is another larger one where the paved track ends and the permit to drive with motor vehicles ends. There, motorised access may be restricted due to capacity or track conditions: have a plan B to park further down and add a section on foot, because the paths and crossings are well defined.
If the car park is full, do not insist or invade the ditches: return to a nearby village and reschedule the route.
To prepare for your outing, check the river and the photography conditions of the area.
When to go: climate and best times by season
The Selva de Irati changes colour four times a year, and each season calls for a different plan. Here is what you will find between March and February, with temperatures, access and equipment for each season.
Spring (March–May)
Tender shoots and bright greens arrive with the flowering of anemones and daffodils in the clearings, and the streams run with high flow. Temperatures range from 5 to 15 °C and rain is frequent.
The main tracks are easy to traverse, but there is mud on the trails and slippery bridges. Bring waterproof boots, a light jacket and a backpack cover, and a scarf if you are sensitive to pollen. It is the season for families, for hikers looking for freshness and for macro photographers in April and May.
Summer (June–August)
The forest becomes dense and shady, the high altitude meadows become accessible and it is tempting to extend the routes.
Access is excellent, although there are more people, especially in August. Pack a cap, sunscreen, 2 litres of water per person, insect repellent and a thin raincoat in your backpack. It works for full-day hiking towards nearby ridges and for families with older children.
Autumn (September–November)
Access is high, but the car parks fill up on weekends and the tracks with wet leaves are slippery. Bring thermal layers, waterproofs, a headlamp and a waterproof bag for the camera. It is the time for landscape photographers, couples and families on short getaways. The leaf litter crunches under your boots.
Winter (December–February)
The forest becomes silent, with possible snowfalls and icicles in the streams, and access to high areas requires caution. Temperatures drop from -5 to 8 °C, with frosts and short windows of stable weather.
Accessibility is variable: tracks and mountain passes may close due to snow or ice, so check the conditions every day. You need winter boots, microspikes or mini-spikes, poles, gloves, a hat, a hot flask, and a thermal blanket. Experienced hikers and photographers enjoy the mist and ice; families are better off doing short and safe walks.
Calendar and tips by profile
- Tender greens from mid-April to late May, full greenery in June and July.
- First golds in late September and autumnal peak from 15 October to 5 November, depending on altitude and weather.
- Bare beech forest with intense mosses in December and February.
- Photographers: autumn and winter for atmospheres, spring for macro.
- Families: May to July and September.
- Hikers looking for a challenge: June to September, for ridges and long connections.
If you rely on public transport, prioritise spring or autumn weekends, with more services and light.
Essential routes and downloadable map
Before setting off, download the Irati Forest map in PDF/KML that you will find in the article and save it on your mobile. This way you have it at hand even if the valley loses coverage.
The KML opens in apps such as IGN Mapas, Gaia GPS or Maps.me. Activate offline mode before starting and you won't depend on the signal.
In each route, you will see the starting point, the suggested route and the variations. On the ground, combine the map with the local PR-NA (Small Route) and SL-NA (Local Path) signage.
If you connect with the GR-11, keep in mind that it is a Long Distance Path that crosses the Pyrenees and requires more time than it seems. On the wooden bridges, the smell of wet wood warns you that you are changing valleys.
Beech Forest Path (Short circular): perfect first contact
Four or five kilometres of mature beech forest with sections of fir, uncomplicated and starting from the Orbaitzeta Forest House.
The route measures 4–5 km, with an elevation gain of +150 m, and is completed in 1 h 30 min–2 h at a steady pace. There are natural benches and clearings to eat.
Children enjoy the bridges, the giant leaves and the logs covered in beard lichen.
Look for clearings with filtered light, stream crossings and natural viewpoints among the European beech trees. To take photos, the lines of parallel trunks and the carpets of leaves provide the best shots.
Watch out for mud in spring and autumn and for the narrow sections of the single-track: keep the little ones in sight and do not leave the path. Wear waterproof footwear and carry poles if it rains.
In high season, especially in autumn, arrive early due to the limited number of parking spaces. If it is full, wait your turn or choose an alternative itinerary from the Irati Forest map. Other paths in the Irati Forest are accessible through the Salazar Valley access.
Irabia Reservoir Route: water and forest hand in hand
The loop around the Irabia Reservoir is a classic of the Irati Forest due to its ease and the continuous views of the water. The murmur of the water beneath the European beech trees sounds like a page being turned slowly.
The full loop takes between 2 h 45 min and 4 h, depending on your pace and stops. The cumulative elevation gain is 80 m and the difficulty is easy-moderate due to the length. Along the way, you will find walkways, reservoir banks with waterfowl, and beech forests that peer out like balconies over the water.
Bring lightweight binoculars: you can see white-throated dippers, great herons, and forest passerines. There are benches and rest areas with views, perfect for a quiet picnic. The edge of the path can be slippery with leaves and mud, so avoid stepping on the slopes. On rainy days, the reservoir level may cover small low-lying crossings: respect the temporary signage.
Access via the paved road is regulated to avoid traffic congestion. There is a small designated parking area near the dam with limited space, so it is advisable to arrive early.
In the downloadable Irati Forest map, locate the outline of the reservoir and the variations marked as “Vuelta de Irabia” and “Semi-circular Norte/Sur”.
Path to the high areas of Abodi and towards the Mesa (Moderate)
From Casas de Irati, a route sets off that climbs up the Abodi sierra and leaves the beech forest to enter meadows and ridges. Above, the visual prelude to the Larra massif and the Mesa de los Tres Reyes appears.
It is 19.01 km round trip, with moderate difficulty. The key points are the forest-meadow edge, the views towards Orhi and the Larra corridor, and the raptor roosts on clear days.
The summit of Abodi exceeds 1,500 metres in altitude. Bring a windbreaker, enough water, and sun protection: the wind blows at the top and there is little shade.
To take photographs, leave very early or arrive during the afternoon golden hour, when the rolling hills catch a soft light perfect for short telephoto lenses. In autumn, there is a contrast of golden meadows and glowing beech forests.
The Mesa de los Tres Reyes is the highest point in Navarra and a flattened summit where Navarra, Aragón, and France meet. It is approached as a separate excursion, at an advanced level, with 1,500 m of cumulative elevation gain.
To reach the start of the route, from Ochagavía you must head to Casas de Irati.
More than walking: activities and living nature
In Irati, free routes coexist with guided outings led by environmental educators who read the forest and its stories of wood, charcoal, and water. There are trails for all levels and interpretive outings during the season.
Hiking operates via SL-NA, PR-NA routes and sections of the GR-11 adapted to different levels. Local companies and guides offer interpretive outings during the season.
Wildlife watching is done at sunrise and sunset, away from crowds, with silence and patience. For photography, look for the golden hours with a lightweight tripod and ND filters by the streams.
In the cooler areas, monumental European beech trees, tall firs, English holly, and European yew grow, and bearded lichens indicate clean air. The humidity of the undergrowth smells like moss tea when you crouch down to see the lichens.
With children, tracking games, short walks, and interpretation centres with models and panels work well. Book guided outings in advance during the season and leave sunrise or sunset for the wildlife.
Hiking: levels, signage and safety
Choose your route based on your fitness level and experience, not by the most attractive photo.
The demanding level links ridges or stages of the GR-11.
The colours of the signage marks tell you what type of route you have ahead of you.
Carry an offline map and an extra battery: coverage is irregular. Check the weather 24 h and 3 h before, and if there is a storm, reduce your exposure on ridges. Tell someone your plan and set a return time; the smell of ozone before a storm is a warning to lose altitude.
To prepare for the day, IGN Maps, Gaia GPS, Maps.me and the AEMET app for alerts will be useful. Import the KML of the Selva de Irati map and activate flight mode to save battery.
Photography: key points and best times
The Irati beech forest is best photographed with fog or diffused light. Look for gentle slopes where the trunks create vertical rhythms and place the camera at different heights to change that rhythm.
For moving water, go to the streams and the surroundings of Irabia. Carry a lightweight tripod, low ISO, f/8–f/11 and 3–6 stop ND filters if you want a silk effect.
Panoramas are found on the hills of Abodi. A 16–24 mm wide-angle lens gives you the whole view, and a short 70–200 mm telephoto lens compresses the layers of the landscape.
The best times are the golden hour and the blue hour, at sunrise and sunset, for ridges and meadows. A cloudy midday works best in the beech forest.
After the rain, colours appear saturated and the leaves shine. Protect your equipment with a cover and keep it close at hand.
Respect the wildlife: do not use decoys or bird song recordings. Keep your distance from animals and nests, and walk along the path without stepping on mosses or lichens. Share sensitive locations with discretion so as not to overcrowd the most fragile spots.
Fauna and flora: who lives here and where to see them
The beech and the fir dominate the Irati forest. In the shaded areas, English holly and European yew grow, and hazel appears on the edges.
Clearings are the best place to see roe deer and red deer, especially at sunrise and sunset. Wild boar also lives here, although it is elusive and difficult to find.
In the streams, look for the white-throated dipper. In the mature stands of trees, the great spotted woodpecker and the black woodpecker live, and in the open edges, the griffon vulture and the short-toed snake eagle can be seen. In summer, the clearings fill with butterflies and the water edges with dragonflies.
The distant tapping of a woodpecker sounds like a clock in the forest.
To observe, walk in silence, keep your distance and carry binoculars. At night, avoid powerful torches except for safety, and respect temporary closures during breeding season.
Family and alternative activities
The Selva de Irati can also be explored without rushing, with short plans that work for children. Choose the activity according to age and the time you have.
On a mountain bike, the marked forest tracks are the comfortable option; it is advisable to avoid narrow trails. Near the car parks, there are designated picnic areas, but you cannot light a fire. The interpretation centres have panels about wildlife, wood and traditional uses.
For families with children, 1–2 h routes are the most suitable. Bring layers, water and a small "leaf hunting" game. In summer, a cap and sunscreen; in autumn, a small raincoat. The crunch of an acorn under a boot is music to curious children.
Where to sleep: charming villages with good access
Sleeping near the forest gifts you tranquil sunrises and early access to the Irati car parks. The surrounding villages maintain stone, wood and sloping roofs, with inns, rural houses and small hotels that offer warm hospitality. At nightfall, the chimneys smell of firewood and hot soup.
- Ochagavía (Salazar valley):
- Advantages: gateway to Casas de Irati; well-kept atmosphere; gastronomic offerings and services.
- Ideal for: families and couples wanting to combine walks and quiet dinners.
- Ezcároz and villages of the Salazar:
- Advantages: tranquillity, proximity to Ochagavía and good prices outside of bank holidays.
- Ideal for: travellers seeking calm and nearby easy routes.
- Orbaizeta (Aezkoa):
- Advantages: access to the Irabia reservoir and to the ancient Armas Factories, now a historical vestige.
- Ideal for: hikers who prioritise walks by the water and less crowded routes.
- Isaba and Roncal valley:
- Advantages: excellent base for Belagua, viewpoints and panoramic routes; good dining.
- Ideal for: photographers and groups alternating Irati with nearby high mountains.
- Zuriza and Ansó (Aragon side):
- Advantages: high mountain landscape and natural link with Belagua.
- Ideal for: summer and early autumn, with more stable weather at altitude.
Booking tips:
- Autumn and August are high demand; book 3–6 weeks in advance.
- During the week there is more availability and friendlier prices.
- Ask about early breakfast times if you plan photogenic sunrises.
- If you travel as a family, consider apartments or family rooms and confirm the availability of cots.
Indicative table of bases and access:
| Base | Main access | Time to key parking | Best profile |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ochagavía | Casas de Irati (Salazar) | 24 km | Families, couples |
| Orbaizeta | Irabia (Aezkoa) | 15–25 min | Hikers by water |
| Isaba | Belagua/Viewpoints | 20–35 min | Photographers, groups |
| Ezcároz | Casas de Irati | 25–35 min | Quiet travellers |
For guided experiences or those combined with gentle cycling, check the options on Picuco and adjust your accommodation based on the starting point. The Basque greeting first thing in the morning, “Egun on”, sounds like an ancient welcome that endures.
Practical tips: equipment, safety and responsible mobility
Fog can erase the path in ten minutes and signal coverage does not always reach. In the Selva de Irati, equipment and foresight weigh as much as the route you choose.
In spring and autumn, bring waterproof boots, spare socks, a 10–15,000 mm waterproof jacket with a thin lining and folding poles. In summer, trekking shoes with deep lugs or light boots are enough, along with a cap, sunglasses, sunscreen, 2 l of water per person and an ultralight raincoat. In winter, add winter boots, microspikes for ice, gaiters, thermal layers, gloves, a hat, a buff, a thermal blanket and a thermos.
Before setting off, plan the route and its alternatives and download the KML and a raster map from the IGN. Check the AEMET forecast and the status of the mountain passes on the day of the route. Carry a first-aid kit with bandages, adhesive tape, basic painkillers, a thermal blanket and a whistle, and maintain a conservative pace.
Follow the SL-NA, PR-NA and GR markings without taking shortcuts, and respect temporary closures and warnings from the Guardería de Medio Ambiente. If fog arrives, reduce the distances within the group and avoid heading out onto ridges. Coverage is irregular: use airplane mode to save battery, track your progress with the Selva de Irati map track and carry a power bank and cable.
With pets, always keep them on a lead to avoid encounters with livestock and wildlife, and carry specific water for the dog; do not drink from streams without purifying it. Follow the "leave no trace" rule: take your rubbish back with you, avoid noise and walk on the marked path; do not step on mosses or lichens to take photos. Support local trade by buying bread, cheese and honey in the villages.
In high season, get up early, have a nearby alternative plan ready on the map and avoid peak hours from 10:30 to 13:00 in October. Carry cash for parking fees in case the card machine fails.
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time to visit the Selva de Irati?
The Selva de Irati extends across Navarra (Spain) and the Atlantic Pyrenees (France), and the date of your visit completely changes what you are going to see. Choose according to what you are looking for: autumn for the colours, summer for long routes and spring for walks with children.
Weekends are very busy, so book accommodation 3–6 weeks in advance.
June and July bring stable weather, less mud and long days, with the shade of the beech forest on easy routes. Spring (April–May) works well for families: tender greens, flowers and lively streams. Bring a raincoat and footwear with deep lugs.
In winter the forest is quiet and sometimes snowy. It is the season for experienced hikers, with microspikes and rigorous planning.
How to get there and where to park during high season?
The Irati Forest is in the Navarrese Pyrenees, in the Aezkoa and Salazar valleys (Pirinioak region). From Pamplona, you can reach Casas de Irati via Lumbier and Ochagavía; from the Aezkoa valley, you can head up to Orbaizeta to reach the Irabia area.
During high season, get up early and have your tickets ready to avoid crowds. The silence of dawn in the car park rewards the early start.
If you are planning short afternoon walks, consider the alternatives shown on the downloadable Irati Forest map: a short circular route from Casas de Irati or a semi-circular section near Irabia.
After heavy rain, avoid clay tracks with a low car. In thick fog, reduce your speed and keep your lights on.
Do I need a special permit or are there driving restrictions?
With a vehicle, things change: driving on tracks may be restricted due to capacity, mud, or snow, especially on the access road to Irabia. Pay attention to the barriers and the signage from the Environmental Guard.
Wild camping is not permitted. Overnight stays must be in campsites or designated areas, and it is advisable to avoid bivouacking in dense forest. Dogs must always be on a lead, with special attention in grazing areas; when encountering livestock, keep your distance and walk around them calmly.
Drones are subject to state regulations and local environmental criteria, so avoid using them in the forest and near wildlife.
What basic equipment do I need for the most common routes?
With a lightweight boot with a treaded sole and 1–1.5 l of water per person, you can manage the easy routes of the Irati Forest. Add a compact raincoat, a thin layer, a cap, and sun protection in summer; walking poles are optional.
If you choose moderate routes, add an offline map or a loaded KML, a power bank, a headlamp, a basic first aid kit, and an extra thermal layer. In winter, you will need to add microspikes, gaiters, gloves, a hat, and a hot flask.
All year round, it is advisable to carry energy snacks, a bag for your rubbish, and your phone with apps like IGN Mapas, Gaia GPS, or Maps.me and the KML of the Irati Forest map. If you are going with little ones, pack light spare clothes and an extra emergency blanket.
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Conclusion
Irati is worth the trip for its immense beech-fir forest, the variety of routes and the rural pulse that sustains the landscape. The best time depends on your interests: mild spring, stable summer, fiery autumn and intimate winter. And there are clear alternatives to get there from Pamplona, Donostia or Huesca.
To start, the Beech Forest Path is a circular route of 4–5 km, with easy difficulty, 1 h 30 min–2 h and 150 m of elevation gain. It is signposted and begins at the rest area, about 400 metres from the Centre.
Plan with plenty of time, arrive early in autumn, bring equipment suitable for the season and walk with respect: the villages and their people maintain the access routes, meadows and traditions that give meaning to this forest. Download the Irati Forest map in PDF/KML indicated in the article and save it on your mobile; use it alongside the PR-NA, SL-NA and GR-11 signage to move around safely.
If you want to go deeper, consider a guided interpretation outing or a visit outside of peak hours to listen to the forest in peace. The image you will take with you —mist over Irabia, trunks like columns, rolling meadows— will last longer than any photo if you experience it without rushing.
